Long before the first wave of colonizers set foot on Philippine shores, the art of fermentation had already taken root in Filipino culture. A tradition passed down through generations, fermentation is not just a method of preservation—it’s a celebration of flavor, nutrition, and ingenuity. It enhances proteins, vitamins, and amino acids, transforming simple ingredients into rich, storied delicacies.
But behind every bottle of vinegar or jar of buro lies a story — a story of communities, traditions, and the unwavering spirit of local innovators.
In Central Luzon, these stories are being brought to light by the Department of Science and Technology Regional Office III (DOST III) through its work under the Grassroots Innovation for Inclusive Development (GRIND) program. This initiative maps and supports grassroots innovations, particularly in the realm of fermentation, across Aurora, Bataan, Bulacan, Nueva Ecija, Pampanga, Tarlac, and Zambales—showcasing community-led solutions that blend heritage with sustainable development.
Fermented Heritage: Pampanga and Nueva Ecija
Known as the culinary capital of the Philippines, Pampanga is home to iconic dishes like sizzling Sisig — but the region also treasures a lesser-known but deeply loved delicacy: Burong Isda (fermented rice and fish). This tangy, salty-sweet mix of fish (like tilapia, gurami, or dalag), cooked rice, and rock salt, is traditionally paired with fried fish and boiled vegetables.
Interestingly, variations of Burong Isda abound. In Nueva Ecija,
Leticia Mallari prefers using angkak (red yeast rice) for a distinct reddish hue, while Lucena Genetiano swears by generous amounts of ginger to neutralize the fishy smell. Despite their different techniques, both adhere to a shared belief—no one must watch during the making of buro, lest the result turn out poorly. These women, members of the Hope Rural Improvement Club in Sto. Domingo, Nueva Ecija, are proof of how culinary traditions can also become a source of livelihood and empowerment.
Rooted in Innovation: Tarlac and Aurora
In Tarlac, fermentation goes beyond fish and rice. Thanks to an oversupply of sweet potatoes, the women of Moncadenian’s BUSILAK-RIC in Moncada, supported by their LGU, transformed the humble root crop into internationally recognized Don Benito’s Sweet Potato Wine. They’ve also explored sweet potato chips, buchi, and even beverages.
Further innovation comes from Cristy R. Vallejos, an organic farmer who created Papaya Vinegar by fermenting ripe papayas with sugar to balance the acidity. Meanwhile, in Camiling, Eleanor Gabuyo ferments mango vinegar, proving that fruit fermentation is both sustainable and profitable.
Aurora, on the other hand, offers its own vibrant fare: Roselle Wine, made from antioxidant-rich roselle flowers, and sukang tuba, or coconut vinegar, now infused with spices like garlic, ginger, and chili. Boiled before being bottled, this flavored vinegar is an aromatic twist on a traditional staple. Other regional delicacies include Bignay Wine, Kamias prunes, and Kamias juice, all pointing to the province’s creative flair in utilizing local produce.
Coastal Bounty: Bulacan and Bataan
In the coastal barangays of Malolos, Bulacan, 63-year-old Norberto Ramos turns shrimp residue from patis and bagoong production into heko, a thick, savory paste akin to bagoong. Meanwhile, in Bulakan, Elizabeth Salvador pickles dampalit, a wild coastal herb, creating a uniquely Bulakenyo version of the beloved atchara.
And did you know chocolate is also fermented? In Samal, Bataan, Minila Wanger ferments cacao beans before processing them into chocolate. This crucial step deepens the flavor, giving the chocolate a rich, smooth profile even without sugar. Yet she worries—who will carry on this tradition?
Fermentation as a Cultural Compass
Central Luzon’s fertile lands and abundant waterways offer more than just ingredients—they nurture stories. These fermented products are symbols of resilience, creativity, and heritage. They are the taste of home, the result of resourcefulness, and in many cases, the start of a small business that feeds a family and revives a tradition.
Fermentation is more than preservation—it’s transformation. In every jar of buro, bottle of vinegar, or sip of wine lies the essence of a community’s journey: one that celebrates not only flavor, but also fortitude.
